St. Thomas on Virgin Islands, a very popular cruise destination

St. Thomas is one of the world’s most heavily trafficked cruise ports. Its lofty popularity is earned because St. Thomas offers something for just about everyone (and it’s an island that can accommodate a huge, daily population influx). Its duty-free shopping scene is relatively unparalleled . Other on-the-beaten-track sites include the world-famous beach at Magens Bay and a scenic tram ride to a mountaintop. If you can not make up your mind what cruise is best for you to visit St Thomas, just contact me and I will help you out.

But it’s also amazingly easy to find some respite from the inevitable crowds by exploring St. Thomas’ quieter, more undiscovered side — a lovely historic district, trips to Water Island (the recently designated fourth Virgin Island), north shore beaches and fabulous restaurants in Frenchtown; it is also an easy jaunt via 20-minute ferry to tranquil St. John. Even Red Hook, which is traditionally thought of as nothing more than the jumping-off point for the far more stunning St. John, has local character (you’ll see residents of St. Thomas engaged in everyday life activities) that’s a far cry from Charlotte Amalie’s shopping mall vibe. Just taking local transportation to the eastern end of the island will have you feeling a modicum of emotional distance from the hectic pier.

Virtually every ship sailing an Eastern Caribbean itinerary includes St. Thomas as a port of call as do many Southern Caribbean voyages. You’ll even see St. Thomas on Panama Canal and South American itineraries (when a Florida port such as Ft. Lauderdale or Miami serves as a port of embarkation or debarkation). It is not uncommon, particularly during the Caribbean’s winter high season, to see six or more ships docked and/or anchored in a day — and that can mean an extra 20,000 people infused into a population hovering in the mid-50,000’s.

Where You’re Docked
During particularly busy times (i.e. January through March), your ship will dock at Havensight, the primary dock for cruise ships, or Crown Bay, which opened a new port facility in early 2007. If more than six ships call on St. Thomas in one day, your ship could be anchored in the harbor; the tenders will drop you in the heart of Charlotte Amalie.

Watch Out For
Adventurous types should be hesitant when wandering off the beaten path in Charlotte Amalie; crime can be an issue. Also, though most ships will dock mid-week with Wednesdays in high season accommodating up to six ships in port at the same time, if you find yourself in St. Thomas on a Sunday, you may discover that many of the shops are closed. My advice? Head to the beach.

Getting Around
By Taxi: Though they do exist, individual “cabs” are highly unusual. In most cases, you’ll be shepherded to a van or safari truck that’s heading in the vicinity of your destination and may make multiple stops on the way as locals ask the driver to let them off. You’ll pay a set price per person. From Havensight to town is $5 per person; from Crown Bay to Charlotte Amalie is $4. Tipping is recommended when a driver is particularly helpful or garrulous, but not required.
Taxi drivers like to load up as many people as possible and travel to on-the-beaten-path tourist sites. If you want to veer off that path, you may have trouble finding a driver to take you (in that case I recommend you rent a car).

By Car: At Havensight, Avis has an outpost; advance reservations are highly recommended and rentals start from $56 a day. From Crown Bay, the nearest car rental offices are at the airport (a five-minute taxi ride); Hertz, Avis and Budget have desks there and rentals start at $35 a day.
Drive on the left like at home in the UK. Well advanced country ! The use of cell phones while driving is against the law.

Hanging Around
Havensight: Right at the dock at Havensight is, in essence, a mini-downtown. There are more than 50 shops, many of which are outposts of Charlotte Amalie’s better-known boutiques. Also within the expansive Havensight shopping area is a post office, Banco Popular, First Bank and Chase Manhattan Bank ATM’s; and Havensight Pharmacy. There are plenty of pay phones for cruisers with calling cards who want to avoid costly on-ship phone calls.

Across the main drag running outside Havensight’s facility are convenience stores, coffee shops and Internet cafes.

New, and within walking distance from the Havensight pier, is the Yacht Haven Grande Marina; when you exit your ship, turn left and follow the dock around the harbor. It’s the first genuinely upscale shopping and dining area to open in St. Thomas in years and, though still being completed, already has a couple of restaurants and shops. They’re not duty-free, by the way.

Beyond the immediate facility, the best bargains on duty-free liquor can be found at K-Mart — no lie! Walk up Long Bay Boulevard to the Lockhart Gardens K-Mart (you’ll notice a lot of crew members heading that way — they’re always a good tip-off as they visit often). On the way, a don’t-miss hint: In the parking lot of the Pueblo supermarket, look for a green canvas umbrella where Dominican-transplant Martha Jolly sells gorgeous wicker stuff — at remarkably modest prices. Highlights include a coconut-shell-shaped handbag ($15) and laundry hampers ($50 to $100 depending on size). She also sells gorgeous tropical flowers, from birds of paradise to ginger lily.

Crown Bay: A gorgeous new port area just opened in early 2007, complete with recreated stone sugar mill in honor of the island’s plantation era. At this point it’s pretty empty; tenants so far include a First Bank, and Love and Joy in the USVI, which offers Internet services.

Otherwise, passengers whose ships are docked in Crown Bay have more limited options. Within walking distance is Frank’s Bake Shop (23 Subbase), a charming spot for gourmet coffee and pastries; try the guava danish. The Crown Bay Marina has a branch of Gourmet Gallery (and the ferry to Water Island leaves from here). Tickles is a charming waterside pub at the marina with nautical decor. But you’ll need to head downtown for serious shopping and dining.

Don’t Miss
Charlotte Amalie is easily walkable and a duty-free shopping mecca. Stores are primarily located on Waterfront Highway and, running parallel behind it, Main Street. Barkers occasionally attempt to beckon you into shops (they’re paid each day based on the store’s sales), but are generally less intrusive than in other Caribbean ports (and, often, quite interesting to talk to). While St. Thomas enjoys a reputation as a duty-free paradise, beware: It’s not quite the bargain it used to be and it pays to comparison shop. In the market for a camera, we actually found the prices to be comparable to those found at Best Buy and more expensive than on Amazon.com — with no room for haggling.

Beyond shopping, a walking tour of Charlotte Amalie should include a visit to Fort Christian (on the waterfront, across from Vendor’s Plaza), a national historic landmark that dates back to the 17th century; you can climb the tower for great harbor views. Climb the 99 Steps (Kongens Gade/Government Hill, next to Hotel 1829) — though there are actually 103 — to experience historic downtown’s finest neighborhood with lovely 19th-century plantation homes. Adjacent to the steps is a worthy pit stop: Haagensen House, an 1820’s townhouse that’s a museum and garden with a great gift shop selling antiques. The St. Thomas Synagogue (Raadets Gade and Crystal Gade), which is the Western Hemisphere’s second oldest (the oldest is located in Curacao). It was built in 1833 by Sephardic Jews and is open for tours. The floor is covered with sand symbolizing the flight of the Jews out of Egypt and across the desert.

Coral World is one of those well-hyped tourist attractions that actually lives up to expectations. Located at Coki Beach (cab ride required), it’s a 4.5-acre marine park whose highlight is an underwater observatory with 360-degree views of fish and other sea creatures. The only way to see fish without getting wet.

For a great island view and excellent photo opportunity, take the Paradise Point Tramway, across from Havensight. It climbs 700 ft. to Paradise Point (there’s a little shopping area with the obvious tourist trinkets at the apex). Another great viewpoint can be found at Mountain Top, the island’s highest point — 1,500 feet — which also features tourist shops and is popular with the tour bus crowd. On the way, stop off at St. Peter Greathouse Estate and Gardens, a tropical boutique near Mountain Top.